Making paper pulp or paper clay is a surprisingly simple process. I can complete a batch of pulp in approximately 90 minutes. Around 30 minutes of that is hands on time. The rest is waiting for boiling, straining, cooling etc. However I would recommend avoiding short cuts until you're confident with the process so it may take up to 24 hours per batch.
You will need:
*Fibrous materials such as: newspapers, magazines, egg cartons, old papers, cardboard, junk mail...
*A large pan
*A bucket and something fabric to strain the pulp through
* PVA glue (white glue) or flour
Method:
1)Boil it: Add your materials to a large pan. Tear up bits of cardboard and egg boxes, thinner materials like paper need screwing up so that they don't stick together. Cover with water, bring to the boil and simmer for a few minutes. This is to sterilise your materials and break down the chemicals on glossy papers and magazines. Then leave it to cool. Ideally, you should leave it to cool overnight. This gives time for all the fibres to fully absorb the water and be at their softest - ready for blending.
If I'm not using glossy materials and I know what I'm using is clean I will often half fill the pan and stir as I'm boiling to steam the papers. I top it up with cold water and leave it to cool for around 20-30 minutes.
2) Blend it. I am a big fan of stick blenders. They seem to last longer and be easier to use in the pan. You will ideally need a dedicated blender. Any food in your pulp is highly likely to go mouldy. Having lost count of the number of blenders I have abused until they have died, I wanted to recommend my KOOLLE stick blender but apparently they don't sell them any more, they were pretty cheap and I loved it so much I bought 3. I like being able to use it with hot liquids rather than having to wait for them to cool and it lasts for quite a while without getting too hot.
3) Strain it. Secure some fabric to the top of a bucket and pour the pulp into it. I use an old fermenting bucket with the gusset from an old pair of tights. It's secured with a large rubber band I 'rescued' from a postman and has an old piece of scrap fabric over the top (currently a pillowcase). I try to leave it for at least an hour, until most of the water is drained and then put it in the leg pieces of old tights or stockings and squeeze out any access moisture. If you don't have easy or socially acceptable access to old tights then anything fabric you can hold the pulp in whilst you squeeze it out will do like the sleeve of an old t-shirt, pillowcase etc.
If you are leaving your equipment for any longer than a day or two you need to make sure everything is dried. The neighbours are used to seeing my manky gusset out on the washing line when the weather is nice. If I'm taking longer than a few days off making pulp I soak my fabric layer in boiling water and hand wash it before drying and storing it.
4) Add PVA/flour or dry it out to use later. I haven't used flour to make pulp yet. There is a higher risk of it going mouldy. I've researched and read Victorian recipes that included garlic or some pretty nasty chemicals to avoid this problem. I assume that to use flour you will either need to mix it into a paste before adding it to the paper or leave a little more moisture in the pulp.
If you're drying it to use later make sure you soak it before adding PVA. I learnt the hard way that adding PVA to dry pulp does not work as well. Even if you mix the PVA with water. Paper brick moulds are a great way to store pulp until you're ready to use it.
It can take a while to get used to how much pva to mix in with your pulp. I go by texture. I squish some into a lump and if its clinging to itself when I pull it apart then it's ready. It needs to stick to itself better than it sticks to your hands, for your own sanity as much as anything. I add more PVA if I want a smoother finish such as when I'm doing a final layer. I'm currently working on making videos of the process and will add a few posts on working with pulp that will provide more information later.
Pulp is very forgiving. Work with the wonk and expect a natural flow of contours and shapes - straight lines are extremely challenging without a mould
It's much easier to add to your creation than it is to remove pulp.
And the carinal rule is make sure everything is dry within 9 days because that's when it's likely to start to go mouldy.
