How to make paper pulp or paper clay

Making paper pulp or paper clay is a surprisingly simple process. I can complete a batch of pulp in approximately 90 minutes. Around 30 minutes of that is hands on time. The rest is waiting for boiling, straining, cooling etc. However I would recommend avoiding short cuts until you're confident with the process so it may take up to 24 hours per batch.

 

You will need:

*Fibrous materials such as: newspapers, magazines, egg cartons, old papers, cardboard, junk mail...

*A large pan 

*A bucket and something fabric to strain the pulp through 

* PVA glue (white glue) or flour

Method:

1)Boil it: Add your materials to a large pan. Tear up bits of cardboard and egg boxes, thinner materials like paper need screwing up so that they don't stick together. Cover with water, bring to the boil and simmer for a few minutes. This is to sterilise your materials and break down the chemicals on glossy papers and magazines. Then leave it to cool. Ideally, you should leave it to cool overnight. This gives time for all the fibres to fully absorb the water and be at their softest - ready for blending. 

If I'm not using glossy materials and I know what I'm using is clean I will often half fill the pan and stir as I'm boiling to steam the papers. I top it up with cold water and leave it to cool for around 20-30 minutes. 

2) Blend it. I am a big fan of stick blenders. They seem to last longer and be easier to use in the pan. You will ideally need a dedicated blender. Any food in your pulp is highly likely to go mouldy. Having lost count of the number of blenders I have abused until they have died, I wanted to recommend my KOOLLE stick blender but apparently they don't sell them any more, they were pretty cheap and I loved it so much I bought 3. I like being able to use it with hot liquids rather than having to wait for them to cool and it lasts for quite a while without getting too hot.

 

3) Strain it. Secure some fabric to the top of a bucket and pour the pulp into it. I use an old fermenting bucket with the gusset from an old pair of tights. It's secured with a large rubber band I 'rescued' from a postman and has an old piece of scrap fabric over the top (currently a pillowcase). I try to leave it for at least an hour, until most of the water is drained and then put it in the leg pieces of old tights or stockings and squeeze out any access moisture. If you don't have easy or socially acceptable access to old tights then anything fabric you can hold the pulp in whilst you squeeze it out will do like the sleeve of an old t-shirt, pillowcase etc.

 

If you are leaving your equipment for any longer than a day or two you need to make sure everything is dried. The neighbours are used to seeing my manky gusset out on the washing line when the weather is nice. If I'm taking longer than a few days off making pulp I soak my fabric layer in boiling water and hand wash it before drying and storing it.

4) Add PVA/flour or dry it out to use later. I haven't used flour to make pulp yet. There is a higher risk of it going mouldy. I've researched and read Victorian recipes that included garlic or some pretty nasty chemicals to avoid this problem. I assume that to use flour you will either need to mix it into a paste before adding it to the paper or leave a little more moisture in the pulp. 

 

If you're drying it to use later make sure you soak it before adding PVA. I learnt the hard way that adding PVA to dry pulp does not work as well. Even if you mix the PVA with water. Paper brick moulds are a great way to store pulp until you're ready to use it. 

It can take a while to get used to how much pva to mix in with your pulp. I go by texture. I squish some into a lump and if its clinging to itself when I pull it apart then it's ready. It needs to stick to itself better than it sticks to your hands, for your own sanity as much as anything. I add more PVA if I want a smoother finish such as when I'm doing a final layer. I'm currently working on making videos of the process and will add a few posts on working with pulp that will provide more information later. 

Pulp is very forgiving. Work with the wonk and expect a natural flow of contours and shapes - straight lines are extremely challenging without a mould

It's much easier to add to your creation than it is to remove pulp. 

And the carinal rule is make sure everything is dry within 9 days because that's when it's likely to start to go mouldy. 

How to make a pinata

There are lots of ways to make a piñata. Traditionally they are made out of clay, nowadays they’re mostly made out of cardboard. I make mine out of papier mache. You can make a simple one balloon piñata in under two hours the bigger and more detailed models usually take me at least six hours! Ideally the piñata should be completed a few days before the event to allow it time to dry properly.

 

All you need is;

Some old papers, newspapers or magazines – even an old phone book will do. Glossy pages don't stick as easily but they are useful for making pulp.

 

PVA glue mixed 2:1 with water you can also use flour mixed 2:1 with water (it should be the same constancy as Yorkshire pudding or pancake batter)

Balloons (you can also use cardboard to help with the shape or items wrapped with cling film, the list goes on)

String and/or masking tape

Scissors or a sharp knife

As well as whatever you will need for the final layer

Its traditional to stuff them with sweets but healthier to add a few prizes! Of course there is a lot more scope with an adult piñata...

Cardboard sheets, tubes and boxes as well as your imagination!

 

Instructions

1) Blow up the balloons then use string and masking tape to hold them into the shape you’re aiming to make. Masking tape is better to use than stronger tapes because it doesn’t pop the balloons as easily.

If you stretch the balloons before blowing them up, blow them up to their fullest extent and then allow them to deflate a little they will last longer.

2) Tare newspaper into pieces. Then use a mixture of 1 part water to 2 parts pva glue to smear all over the paper before sticking it to the structure. You can also use paste made out of flour and water. Slap it on and make sure you get right to the edges of the paper! Cover the whole model in newspaper and leave it to dry in a warm place for about 4 hours, although overnight is ideal. You can do more than one layer at once but the model is more likely to wrinkle. Smoothing it down afterwards helps to avoid air bubbles. Using a large bowl will help to hold your piñata in place whilst you apply each layer. Larger pieces of paper are faster but smaller pieces are neater. You can water down the glue a little for more absorbent paper or add more pva to thicken it up for stiffer, heavier or less absorbent materials. Over lapping strips makes for stronger layers.

To avoid loosing track of which bits I have and haven't added a layer to I sometimes alternate between layers of newspaper and another type of scrap paper. This is especially handy with complicated designs and when dealing with interruptions!

3) Repeat step two until you have several layers that are completely dry. 3 - 4 layers is good for a children’s piñata. You need 2-3 layers covering the balloons before they pop or start to deflate otherwise the model will lose its shape.

To build lumps into the structure and shape it often helps to experiment with screwed up lumps, twisted or folded strips of newspaper covered in paste. 

4) Then it’s up to you how you decorate the final layer. Tissue paper is traditional but you can use most paper, thin plastic or fabric, paints and crayons etc, even beads or feathers to give it an unusual look.  If you are sticking on something heavier than paper you will need stronger and faster drying glue than PVA!

If you are using pale or thin paper for your final layer it often helps to use an undercoat of plain white or a suitable coloured thicker layer underneath. 

5) Once it’s all completely dry you can cut a hole for the door with a sharp knife. Cut out three sides of a square or rectangle and fold it outwards. Pull out any balloons, string or masking tape after popping any that haven’t already deflated.

The piñata will feel more sold once its dry, although it should still have a little flexibility to its structure.

6) Then choose somewhere at least a few centimetres away from the door to string the piñata. Make a hole on either side with a sharp knife to thread the string through, using the door to guide the ribbon or string through one side to the other and then tie in a knot. You can always add more string to add length later!

I use a wooden barbecue skewer with a piece of cotton threaded through the end to help me string the piñatas. You could also buy a mattress needle from a fabric shop for £2-3 to help with threading them.

7 ) Organise your filling. Once you have stuffed it you can pop the door back into place and use a few strips of your final layer to reseal it.

You can also stuff the door with bendy straws (each with a ribbon threaded through and knotted at the end) to create a ‘pull piñata’ effect. I just think its more fun to bash it to bits with a big stick!

If you have a design that you're not sure of or would like to know how we've made any of the piñatas on the blogs then why not drop us a line and we'll show you how its done!